On this page we shall be posting articles from time to time that might help with some of your questions. If you have any special request for help on any particular subject, then let us know and we will do our best to get the answer on this page

1. FUEL SYSTEM

To start with, we have tried to address one of the most common problems - the fuel system. There are many different types of fuel system incorporated on karts today, but this one has been used with both sucess and reliability. Just click on the links for the drawing, and a written explanation.

2. INVADER CHASSIS REBUILD

We are really grateful to John Morrish who took the time and trouble to submit this article which explains how to completely strip and rebuild an Invader Chassis.There one or two people who have Invader chassis, who have contacted us for help and advice in this very topic - I hope that this will be helpful in completing our project. One thing I do know - if you have any quetions or need advie in any way, then track own John at one of our race meetings. He will be only too happy to help.

 

From Rust To Race by John Morrish

 

In this article I hope to show how you can put together a racing machine, capable of providing an adrenaline rush, which would normally cost more than many of us can afford.

The first AND MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE to anyone thinking of taking up any form of motor sport is as follows. Research your chosen branch, Join your nearest club, try to find someone in need of a helping hand or try marshalling. You will be surprised how rewarding and valuable these contacts can be. Now on to the project having been involved in karting for many years, this was the obvious place for me to start.

I decided to rebuild a 210 national kart, as this class is competitive but still very friendly. The class is based on the 1950s Villiers four speed two-stroke engine. An advantage of choosing this class being the large amount of second hand equipment available at modest cost. Having found yourself an associate at the club you joined, track down a selection of equipment. Always heed the voice of experience. You should never buy until you are sure the equipment is right for you.

Having traced a chassis which although over 10 years old had not been used for several years. Three engines were purchased from a local newspaper advert at a total cost of £600.

The chassis pictured (fig 1) looked a little sad and although slightly twisted was basically sound.

There are two ways of dealing with basket case rebuilds, you can throw money at the job or do the hard work yourself, I choose to do the work myself, not because I am a grafter but because I am skint (nuf said).

To start I stripped the chrome parts, bumpers, steering column, brake clutch and throttle pedals. On inspection some of these parts were to bad to clean so of they went to the local chrome shop man (a very nice man). £70 later (maybe not that nice! But worth it). Next the master cylinders callipers and stub axles came off and into the cleaning bath for a soak. The back axle as can be seen (fig 1) was a shade of rusty brown not to mention the cob webs. Having undone the retaining bolts it walked away on sixty legs but only as far as the vice, after an hour with some fine emery tape the axle was pristine (the spiders did not stop to help).

With the chassis now completely naked (don’t get excited see fig 2) it was checked for strait and true (dogs back leg springs to mind).

About this time MY MATE KEITH (remember what I said about mates) came on the scene He’s an engineer (well that’s more than lucky). Keith and I took the bare chassis to his workshop and using a flat bench plenty of heat lots of huffing and puffing not to mention a little bad language. The chassis looked like a patchwork quilt, but was as strait as a vicar’s sermon. This is shown in fig 3 but you cant tell can you, NO well you will have to take my word for it.

The next step was to paint the chassis, Halfords were offering three cans of spray paint for the price of two, which provided primer and top coat for £30 magic no just tight. Preparation is the key word when painting (see figs 4&5). The floor tray which came with the kart could have been cleaned and reused however as I make fibre glass panels for a living I wanted to use my own body work which meant a new tray was required.

Its about this time you will be needing nuts & bolts, (a good source for these items can be found at auto jumbles classic car and bike shows).

Most bolts can be cleaned but nuts generally should be replaced. Having mentioned my own panels I must tell you there is a satisfactory alternative, in the direct drive karting class’s they use moulded plastic panels which are strong and cheap and easy to fit.

With the chrome parts back from the (quite nice mans) shop, the rebuild  began. First job was the new floortray, followed by some of the chrome bits and the axle (fig 6&7).

To fit the seat you really need two so if your mate has nipped down the pub you could try bribery. I fitted the brakes next, it goes without saying you will probably be driving this machine so if any part of the build does not seem 100% do it again, with new seals and pads fitted all the hoses and unions were checked, any faulty parts replaced.

Your project will now be starting to take shape you may even have decided on a name for your temptress (see figs 8&9).

It’s now time to talk a little about the engine, my engines came bins. The Villiers engine is relatively simple to work on, however hopefully you will buy a runner as to go onto an engine rebuild would be a stand alone article.

The 210 national class is without doubt a most peculiar form of sport capable of reducing grown men to gibberish or making grown mans dreams come true and to cap it all this years champion is a very fast young lady.

For more details on the class, the people or details of used equipment try the 210-challenge web site.

What did it cost a lot less than you thought but more than I told the wife. Seriously less than £2000 to build, about the same to run for a season (25 races approx). If you enjoyed this article my name is John and I drink larger. As for the finished article see fig 10 not bad for an old codger. There is a huge amount of information and classified ads on the web site, www.210challenge.com. That’s it for now maybe well meet soon.  

 

It may be worth mentioning that if you wish to look at the build requirements to pass MSA scrutineering, the the 2008 MSA year book can be viewed online free of charge, by registering online at www.msauk.org and then click "member publications" and then "Competitors yearbook"